Florianópolis

I spent Friday and Saturday in Barra da Lagoa, a small town in the north of Ilha de Santa Catarina, or Florianópolis, as the island's more commonly known. Having become a bit bored of staying in deserted hostels recently, I decided to stay at the Backpackers Share House, which is probably Florianópolis's best known party hostel. Generally I avoid hostels that describe themselves as party hostels, but since it's currently the low season and the weather is bad, I figured that any other hostel would be virtually empty, and at least I'd have a chance of meeting some people at the Share House.

I think I made the right choice too, because it was one of the best run hostels I've stayed at, and it wasn't completely crazy either, because it was only about 25% full. Every one of the staff made an effort to talk to me and learn my name, which is pretty rare in my experience, and they also cooked good meals every evening, which most of the guests went along to, making it easy to meet everyone. Another bonus was that every evening at caipirinha o'clock (7:30pm) you could claim a free caipirinha, although that was obviously a clever ploy to get everyone in the bar and buying more drinks.

When the weather's good, Florianópolis is a big beach and surfing destination. I already mentioned that the weather was bad (it was cold and windy, with some rain), so the beaches were empty, although there were still a fair few people surfing in the sea near Barra da Lagoa. It was pretty good weather for hiking though, so on Friday afternoon I went for a walk along a couple of trails near the hostel. I began by going down to one of the bays just along the coast, from which I could see across to the northern part of the island (see the photo below).

I then walked up to a lighthouse on the top of the hill, and on the way back to the hostel there was a good view of the canal that runs through Barra da Lagoa, joining the ocean to Florianópolis's biggest lake, Lagoa da Conceição. That evening I had my free caipirinha, as well as two more that I had to pay for (damn, their ploy worked), and the meal was roast beef with mashed potato and vegetables - it was definitely more British than Brazilian, but I enjoyed it anyway.

On Saturday morning I went for a longer walk that took me south from Barra da Lagoa, over the headland and down to Galheta beach on the other side. There were good views from the top, including back to Barra da Lagoa, to Lagoa da Conceição, as well as to the south of the island. This photo shows the view as I approached Galheta beach, which as you can see here I had entirely to myself. I then walked back up to the top of the headland, where I took this self-portrait in a very windswept spot (as you can see, my third beard of the trip is coming along quite nicely). I then got completely lost while trying to find the trail that leads to where the canal enters Lagoa da Conceição (I wanted to get there because I could then cross over the bridge and catch the bus back to Barra da Lagoa). After numerous wrong turns I eventually made it down to sea level, then got lost again, and finally made it to the bridge and caught the bus back to the hostel.

In the afternoon I visited the Barra da Lagoa base of Projeto TAMAR, which is a charity dedicated to the preservation of sea turtles. They had about twenty turtles of various species in a series of tanks, including this guy and his friend in the photo below.

Most of them were living in tanks containing nothing but water, which didn't seem like much of a life for them, and I didn't understand why they were being kept there. A few of them were even hitting their flippers against the side of the tank, apparently in an attempt to get out. When I was back in the hostel I spoke to an American girl who'd also been to the turtle centre that day, and since she spoke Portuguese, she'd asked about why the turtles were being kept in the tanks. She was told that all of the turtles had been rescued as babies, and they'd now have to live their whole lives at the centre because they wouldn't survive if they were released. I guess the other obvious reason is that it gives something for people to see when they go to Projeto TAMAR's visitor centres.

Yesterday was election day in Brazil, with a new president being elected to replace President Lula, the man who can take most of the credit for the great improvements in Brazil's economy over the past eight years that have made it such an expensive country for me to travel around. There'd clearly been a lot of last minute campaigning going on, because on the way to the bus station yesterday morning I saw literally tens of thousands of discarded election leaflets littering mile after mile of Florianópolis's roads. How typical that after I've put up with seven weeks of very visible and often noisy election campaigning, it all ends on the very day that I leave Brazil.

I've now moved on to Montevideo in Uruguay, at the start of my final week in South America.

Itaipu Dam and Iguazu Falls

I arrived in Ciudad del Este on Monday afternoon, and I made a bad mistake with my choice of hotel. I decided to stay in Hotel El Caribeño because it was the cheapest hotel listed in Lonely Planet, and since I was only going to be there for one night, I didn't care if it was a bit grim. However, I discovered when I arrived that the hotel had been transformed - the rooms had been renovated, with brand new beds, bathrooms, TVs and air conditioning units. The price had also been transformed, to almost double what it was before the renovation. I reluctantly paid the money, as it was still cheaper than anything else nearby, but what I didn't realise at that point was that the renovation of the hotel was only partially complete.

The workmen had obviously stopped their hammering and drilling while I checked in, but they soon restarted - it carried on until 9pm, and then started again at 6am the following day. At one point there was a builder inside my room drilling holes in the floor to fix a door stop; while he was doing this, I was sitting on my bed watching television (although I couldn't hear the television because of the noise), and the owner's young son was standing in the doorway, staring at me. I wasn't really expecting that!

The reason I stayed the night in Ciudad del Este was to go for a tour of the Itaipu Dam, so the following morning I got up early to go there (it's difficult to sleep when someone's drilling a hole in the wall outside your room). The dam is the second largest electricity generating plant in the world (after the Three Gorges Dam), and was built in the 1970s and 1980s across the Paraná River, on the border between Brazil and Paraguay.

Before the free tour began, we were treated to a short propaganda film telling us how great it all is, with lots of impressive facts and figures (the dam is as high as a 65-storey building; the steel used in its construction could build 380 Eiffel Towers; 15 times as much concrete was used as as during the construction of the Channel Tunnel, etc.). The film completely failed to mention any of the negative impacts of the dam's construction, for example that 10,000 families living next to the river lost their homes, and that the Guaíra Falls, the world's largest waterfall by volume, were completely drowned by the reservoir that formed behind the dam.

We then went by bus to a viewpoint where I took a couple of photos of the dam (here and here), and then the bus drove us across the top of the dam, from where we could see the reservoir. To be honest I found it all a bit underwhelming - sure, it was a big dam, but I couldn't see anything happening at all. In the promotional photos, the gates in the first of my photos are open, with water gushing out of them, and that would have given an idea of the power of the water. However, I think those gates are only opened during the wet season to stop the reservoir from overflowing, and at this time of year almost all of the water flows through the turbines, which obviously you can't see. I did read today that it's possible to go on a special tour that includes a visit to the production building and command centre, etc., but that tour wasn't being advertised when I was there.

After I returned from the tour I had a quick look around Ciduad del Este, which was enough to tell me that it's a pretty awful place. The city is one of the largest tax-free commerce zones in the world, so most of the activity revolves around shopping. The city contains dozens of shopping centres, and along the main road is a manic market that gets more and more frenetic the closer you get to the border with Brazil. So I quickly made my escape to Foz do Iguaçu in Brazil, and I've spent the last two days visiting Iguazu Falls - yesterday I went to the Argentinian side, and this morning I went to the Brazilian side.

Unfortunately Iguazu Falls is a massive tourist trap, with coach-load after coach-load of tourists pouring into the place and clogging up the walkways (I know I'm not exactly helping matters). It's true that the falls are one of the most amazing sights on the planet, but it does reduce the enjoyment a bit when you have to fight your way past hundreds of other people just to see it (it was a lot worse on the Argentinian side than on the Brazilian side). This couldn't have been more different from Angel Falls, which is so remote that it receives a tiny fraction of the number of Iguazu's visitors, and where the only viewing platform is a slippery rock.

Anyway I tried my best to put all that to the back of my mind and enjoy the falls, which were spectacular. On the Argentinian side, I began my visit at the Garganta del Diablo (Devil's Throat), which is probably the most impressive of all of the 275 waterfalls (I don't know how they counted them). I also took a video, which you can see below.

I then walked around the Upper Circuit, from where I got a good idea of the extent of the falls, and where I also saw some of them close up, such as Salto San Martin. Afterwards I went round the Lower Circuit, where there were also good views of the whole of the falls (below), as well as of Salto Dos Hermanos (Two Brothers Waterfall).

I returned from my visit to the Argentinian side of the falls to discover that someone had stolen my copy of Lonely Planet South America from beside my bed in my dorm. I'm not particularly bothered, because I only have three days left in Brazil, and I have a separate Lonely Planet book for Argentina and Uruguay, but it is a bit of a nuisance. On the positive side, it was a heavy book, and it means I now have one less thing to carry around with me.

This morning I went to the Brazilian side of the falls, which gives a completely different perspective. Here is a general view of the falls, and here is a close-up of Salto Rivadavia (with Salto Tres Mosqueteros and Salto Dos Mosqueteros in front of it). I then walked along the trail to get a view of Garganta del Diablo from the opposite side (photos here and here). I also took another video, which you can see below.

And finally here is a nice picture of a rainbow over the falls!

I'm catching the bus to Florianópolis this evening, to spend my penultimate South American weekend on Ilha de Santa Catarina. The weather forecast is terrible though, so it might not be such a great plan.

The Pantanal

I arrived in Campo Grande on Monday morning and booked myself on a three-day tour of the Pantanal leaving the following day. The Pantanal is the world's largest wetland, and it's Brazil's top ecological attraction, offering the chance to see a huge variety of wildlife. Mainly because I'm a bit lazy, but also because I was tired after the overnight bus journey from São Paulo, I didn't shop around, and just booked the Pantanal tour with the agency affiliated with the hostel in which I was staying. The agency's name is Ecological Expeditions, and I knew about their reputation for being one of the cheapest and definitely not the best Pantanal operator, but I figured that as long as they took me to the Pantanal and showed me some wildlife, I'd be OK with that. As it turned out, I did see plenty of wildlife, although I also very much got what I paid for.

The following morning I met up with the rest of the group, and we set off on the long journey to the Ecological Expeditions camp in the southern Pantanal. There were just five of us on the tour - myself and two British couples. They were Sean and Jo from Birmingham, and Gary and Michelle, two students from Belfast who, thanks to their out of date copy of Lonely Planet, had greatly underestimated the cost of travelling in Brazil and were facing serious money problems.

We arrived at the camp at about 4:30pm, and there was nothing planned for that first evening, so our three-day tour had already turned into a two-day tour. What did I say about getting what I paid for? After dropping our things off in our sleeping quarters (hammocks again) and taking a brief look around the camp, we walked down to the river just beyond the perimeter of the camp to watch the sunset. We then relaxed in our hammocks until dinner, which was actually pretty good (a typical Brazilian buffet of chicken, spaghetti, rice, beans and salad), after which we all got an early night. It was a surprisingly cold night too, considering it was 35C during the day.

The next morning we were woken early for breakfast, and then set off for our first bit of wildlife spotting, which was on foot, although we first had to be driven for about half an hour in a jeep to the start of the walk. In the vehicle with us were a group of three Chinese tourists who'd arrived the day before us, and one of them was carrying an extraordinarily large camera lens. I'd never seen anything like it - it was nearly a metre long. I don't know why he didn't go the whole hog and bring the Hubble Space Telescope along with him as well.

Actually that kind of camera equipment might have been useful, because it was pretty hopeless trying to take pictures of wildlife with my tiny point-and-shoot camera. Anyway, even from the jeep we saw some animals, including a hawk and some otters, and there were some good views of the Pantanal wetlands (below).

Where we went for the walk was a lot drier, as you can see here. We walked around the grassland with our guide, Gabriel, for about 2½ hours, and we saw quite a few more creatures, including macaws and monkeys (I can't remember what kind), and we also had a very close encounter with a caiman, as you can see below.

It's currently the dry season in the Pantanal, and the water was either very low or completely dried up in most places. Gabriel told us that this walk is a very different experience in the wet season, when it sometimes rains non-stop for days, and the water level can be up to three metres higher than it is at the end of the dry season. During the wet season we'd have been wading through chest-deep water, which can be a bit risky, as Gabriel explained. He told us the story of how on one such walk, an Australian tourist was bitten on the leg underwater by an anaconda, which then started to wind itself around the man's body (anacondas aren't venomous, but they're constrictors, so this is the way they kill their prey). Gabriel managed to get the snake to let go by stabbing it with his knife, and in the end the man was lucky to survive with just a nasty wound to his leg.

After the walk we returned to the camp for lunch, and then after a few more hours' lazing around (the best use was definitely not being made of the little available time), we set off for our second and third activities, which were a boat trip followed by piranha fishing. On the boat trip we saw plenty more wildlife, including more otters, a family of capybaras (the largest rodents in the world), and also a frog that hitched a lift on our boat.

But beating all of that, we spotted a jaguar, which Gabriel told us is a very rare sight (he said he sees on average about one jaguar a month). It was only visible for about twenty seconds, and was quite a long distance away, so I completely failed to take a photo of it. However, Jo did manage to take a video of it, and for what it's worth, you can see it below. I should warn you that the video's pretty shaky and not exactly professional quality, but it's better than I managed, and I think it does at least prove that there was a jaguar there.

Shortly afterwards, Gabriel stopped the boat to allow us to do a spot of piranha fishing. I didn't catch anything worth keeping (I clearly had beginners' luck in the jungle in Ecuador), but some of the others did, and we ended up with five or six fish that were prepared for dinner that evening.

The following morning we again set off early for our final activity, which was a jeep safari. Calling it a jeep safari makes it sounds like we were driving around the wide open plains following animal tracks, whereas in fact all we did was drive up and down one very long, straight road and look for any wildlife that happened to be sitting by the side of it. In fairness that's all it's really possible to do in a jeep in the Pantanal, because you can't go off-road on that kind of terrain. Anyway, we did see a few more animals, including some toucans, a kingfisher with a fish in its mouth, and hundreds of caimans. The reason there were so many caimans in one place is that they live in water, and there's not much of that around at the moment. Gabriel said that just a few days after we were there, that river would also dry up, so they'd be forced to move on, possibly into the Paraguay side of the Pantanal.

We were back in the camp for lunch, and that was pretty much the end of the tour. We just had a couple more hours to kill before we caught our transport back to Campo Grande. I'd say that overall it was a reasonable tour. It was very disorganised (for some reason Gabriel didn't seem to be able to tell us until the very last minute which activity we'd be doing next), but I think we did see as much wildlife as we could have expected to see, and with one very big bonus, which was the jaguar.

I've now entered Paraguay, so this marks the end of my time in Brazil, at least temporarily, because I'll be coming back when I go to Iguazu Falls next week. I've spent six weeks in Brazil, which have been by a long way the most expensive six weeks of my trip (I don't want to know how much money I've spent on bus tickets). But it's been worth it, because the highlights (Jericoacoara, Rio de Janeiro, Ouro Preto, São Paulo), as well as the people I've met along the way, have definitely made Brazil a contender for my favourite country in South America.

São Paulo

Earlier in my trip, before I even arrived in Brazil, I met some Brazilians and we spoke about São Paulo. What they said gave me the impression that it was such a dangerous city that I'd probably be attacked if I even dared to set foot outside my hotel. For that reason I hadn't planned to visit São Paulo, but having spoken to other people more recently who'd been to São Paulo and liked it, I decided to ignore the earlier advice and go there after all. I'm glad I did too, because I had a great time, and had absolutely no security problems at all.

São Paulo is a huge city. With 19 million inhabitants, it's the largest city in the southern hemisphere, and the seventh largest in the world, and it's the financial and cultural centre of Brazil. It also has the world's largest public transport system, including an excellent metro system, which made getting around town pretty easy (although I never managed to figure out the buses).

I arrived at Vila Madalena Hostel early on Thursday morning, which meant that I had to wait a few hours until I could check in. Eventually my bed became free, so I checked into my dorm, and then Tulio, the eccentric owner of the hostel, presented me with a city map, and spent half an hour scrawling all over it, suggesting places I should visit during my stay. It was by far the most helpful advice any hostel owner or employee has ever given me.

After a brief rest I set off on the walking tour that Tulio had suggested to me, which took me from the hostel, through the upmarket Jardim Paulista neighbourhood, and onto Paulista Avenue, which is Brazil's most important financial centre and also home to MASP (São Paulo Museum of Art), which is Latin America's most important museum of Western art. I then spent an hour or two looking around the museum, which contained artworks by most of the big hitters in the art world (Picasso, Van Gogh, Monet, Renoir, Rembrandt, Constable, Turner, etc., etc.). I then made my way back to the hostel via Oscar Freire Street, which is apparently the ninth most luxurious street in the world.

Tulio describes Vila Madalena as an art and design hostel, and he's personally very interested in art, so much of the advice he gave me was based on the art galleries and exhibitions that he suggested I visit. One of them was actually a street, Beco de Batman (Batman's Alley), the walls of which are completely covered by graffiti, so after returning from Tulio's walking tour I went to take a look. I had a bit of trouble finding the street, but once I did, there was no question that I was in the right place. There were some quite impressive but weird paintings there, for example here and below.

It was started to get dark by this point, and I didn't think it was a good idea to linger too long in a dark alley, so I quickly made my way back to the hostel. When I got there I met Zani and Maria, two girls that were staying in my dorm, who were from Australia and Brazil respectively. They invited me to go out to dinner with them, so we went out for some typical Brazilian food, followed by a few beers back at the hostel.

The following day Maria and I went for a walk around two of São Paulo's neighbourhoods, Centro and Liberdade. Centro is the historic centre of São Paulo, and Liberdade is the Japanese district, which is home to the largest Japanese community outside Japan in the world. In the morning we saw the main sights of the historic centre, including the Cathedral and the Viaduto do Chá (Tea Viaduct), which is São Paulo's oldest viaduct. We also called in at Edifício Itália (see the photo below), which is one of São Paulo's landmark buildings, and the second tallest building in the city. There's a restaurant and viewing platform on the top floor of the building, which I'd read that it was possible to visit, but the man at the information desk told us that if we wanted to go there without eating at the expensive restaurant, we'd have to come back between 3pm and 4pm.

So we walked over to Liberdade, where we had Japanese curry for lunch, and it was at this point that Maria admitted that my preference for walking everywhere had caused her feet to blister almost to the point of bleeding, which did make me feel a bit guilty. However, after stopping off at a shop to buy a new pair of Havaianas we were ready to continue, and we carried on walking around Liberdade, calling in at a big orchid show (I never knew the Japanese were so keen on orchids).

We then made our way back to Edifício Itália, via the Mercado Municipal, which is one of the best food markets I've ever visited. We arrived back at Edifício Itália at the appropriate time, and made our way up to the top floor, where the view was pretty impressive - there are some photos here and below.

That evening Maria, I, and Lesley, a Canadian girl also in our dorm, went to a gig, because there were three Canadian guys staying at our hostel who were members of a samba band, and they were in São Paulo to do a mini-tour. They'd invited everyone they'd met in the hostel to their gig the previous night, but since it was in a different neighbourhood we didn't go. However, their second gig, which was taking place that night, was in a venue about three blocks from the hostel, so this time we had no excuse.

Even though the club was nearby, it was in an extremely obscure location, and we'd never have found it without detailed directions (we had to walk about 50m through a car park until we spotted it, and there was no indication on the street that the club was there). And it was a really good night - I thought it was pretty brave of a Canadian band to come to Brazil to play samba music, but they really pulled it off. The band were playing with a local saxophonist, and the keyboard player, David, told us at the interval that they'd only met this guy half an hour before the show started, which seemed pretty amazing to me.

The following day was a bit of a write-off, as I was so tired from Friday night. In the morning I set goodbye to Zani, and then I went over to the bus station to buy my ticket for the following day to Campo Grande. On my way back I stopped off to take a look at an antiques market that takes place every Saturday about two blocks from the hostel. Obviously I wasn't planning to buy any antiques, but it was interesting to have a wander round, and there were food stalls and even a band playing. Afterwards I called in at two more small art galleries that Tulio had particularly recommended to me - one of them was an alternative gallery with graffiti-like artworks hung on black walls, and it was pretty weird. It was more Japanese food for dinner - sushi this time, at a local restaurant.

On Sunday at lunchtime, Maria left to catch her flight to Rio, but my bus wasn't until 8pm, so I still had the afternoon to kill. After an aborted attempt to visit the Museu do Futebol (Museum of Football), which turned out to be closed, I walked over to the huge Ibirapuera Park, and I spent the rest of the afternoon there, visiting a couple of museums including MAM (São Paulo Museum of Modern Art) and generally wandering around.

That just about all I have to say about São Paulo, where I spent four really enjoyable days. São Paulo has none of the beauty of Rio de Janeiro, and if you don't like big cities you'd probably hate it, but it has an energy and excitement unlike anything else that I've come across in South America.

Ouro Preto

I took a bit of a detour en route from Rio de Janeiro to São Paulo, to spend a couple of days in Ouro Preto, which is one of the most beautiful and best-preserved colonial towns in the whole of South America. Ouro Preto (which means Black Gold in Portuguese), was the centre of Brazil's gold mining industry in the 18th century, and it was the wealth generated by this that paid for the construction of the baroque churches and grand administrative buildings that are dotted around the town.

To give you an idea of what the town looks like, there are a couple of views of Ouro Preto here and here. This is a photo of Tiradentes Square, which is Ouro Preto's main square, and Rua São José is one of the main streets in the city centre. However, Ouro Preto is best known for its churches, and I've been to see quite a lot of them, including Igreja Nossa Senhora do Rosário, Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Conceição de Antônio Dias and Igreja São Francisco de Assis (below).

The second of these churches also houses the Aleijadinho Museum. Aleijadinho was a sculptor and architect who sculpted the exteriors of several of the churches in Ouro Preto, including Igreja São Francisco de Assis (which he also designed), as well as numerous statues that are situated inside the churches. He did this despite losing his hands and his feet due to illness at the age of 40, after which he continued to sculpt with a hammer and chisel strapped to his arms (Aleijadinho is a nickname that means 'little cripple' in Portuguese).

Other than the churches, I paid a quick visit to the Teatro Municipal, which was inaugurated in 1770, making it the oldest theatre in the whole of the Americas that's still in operation. I also went for a tour of the Museu da Inconfidência (Conspiracy Museum) - see the photo below - which is at the opposite end of Tiradentes Square from the photo that I linked to earlier.

The museum describes the history of Ouro Preto, concentrating on the Inconfidência Mineira (Minas Conspiracy), which was an independence movement that began in Ouro Preto in 1789. The movement was led by a man called Tiradentes (which means 'tooth puller') - he was a dentist, hence the nickname. The conspiracy failed, and Tiradentes was tried and then hanged in the square that now bears his name. Since the late 19th century Tiradentes has been considered a national hero in Brazil.

That's about all I have to report from Ouro Preto. After yet another overnight bus journey I've now moved on to São Paulo, a city with 19 million inhabitants,which is a bit of a change of scenery once again.

Rio de Janeiro

I'm now at the end of my fifth day in Rio, and they've been five full and busy days, with excellent weather, and I could easily have spent longer here. I'd say Rio has probably jumped right to the top of my list of favourite cities in South America. It's a beautiful city, not really in terms of its buildings, but more in terms of its location, which must be the most spectacular of any city in the world. I've been staying in Copacabana, which is one of the smarter areas of Rio, with a great central location. I'm also glad that I've finally found where all of the Western tourists are in Brazil. There must be as many Westerners visiting Rio as there are in the rest of the country put together, but I guess that's not very surprising.

I found myself staying in a bit of a party hostel, so having arrived here from Salvador on Wednesday afternoon I went out to a bar in Ipanema that evening with a group of people that I'd met in the hostel. I was ready for bed by 3am, so I came back to the hostel then, but most of the rest of them stayed out until about 5:30am, and they then continued to do exactly the same thing every night of the week. I couldn't keep up with that kind of pace, particularly as I actually wanted to see some of Rio during the day, so I gave up trying after the second night, and left them to get on with it.

After a bit of a late start on Thursday morning, I went to see two neighbouring parts of Rio - Centro and Santa Teresa. Centro is the financial centre of Rio, the equivalent of London's Square Mile, and it's buzzing on weekdays and deserted on weekends. It has several impressive buildings, including the Petrobras Tower and the incredibly un-cathedral-like Cathedral. I also went for a look around the Museu Nacional de Belas Artes (National Fine Arts Museum).

I then caught a rickety old tram to Santa Teresa, which is a bohemian neighbourhood with cobbled streets and lots of art galleries, set on a hill overlooking the city. The most interesting place I visited was the Museu da Chácara do Céu, which is an art museum in the 1950's-built former home of the art collector Raimundo Castro Maia. Several of the rooms in the mansion have been preserved almost exactly as they were when Maia was living there, and the gardens have great views of Sugar Loaf Mountain and the Centro (below).

I also went to see the Escadaria Selarón, which is a staircase that the Chilean-born artist Jorge Selarón has been decorating with tiles for the past twenty years. At the top of the stairs a man was removing some of the tiles with a chisel, and I wondered what he was doing, because he seemed to be destroying the staircase. However, when I reached the bottom, I read this sign, which explained everything - Selarón is constantly changing the tiles, and as the sign says, he will only complete this crazy original dream on the last day of his life. And here is the great/crazy man in action.

On Friday I went to see what are probably Rio's two most famous sights, the Christ the Redeemer statue and Sugar Loaf mountain. I started off in the morning by catching a bus over to Cosme Velho, from where I caught a cog train to the summit of the 710m-high Corcovado mountain, which is where Christ the Redeemer is located. Here and here are a couple of photos of the statue, but even more spectacular were the 360° views of Rio. I could see Ipanema, Copacabana, the eastern side of Rio (including Centro, Guanabara Bay and the 13km-long Rio-Niteroi Bridge), and Botafogo and Sugar Loaf Mountain (below).

I then caught a bus over to Botafogo, from where I walked around Botafogo Bay to Morro da Urca, which is where you catch the first of two cable cars that take you to the top of Sugar Loaf mountain. There are a couple of other views of Sugar Loaf mountain here and here, the first from Botafogo, and the second from the foot of Morro da Urca. Once at the top, the views were again amazing, including views back towards Christ the Redeemer, and of Copacabana Beach, Niterói to the east, and Botafogo Bay.

On Saturday I stayed a bit closer to home, and went for a long walk from my hostel along Copacabana Beach, and then I continued along Ipanema Beach. Since it was the weekend and the weather was perfect, the beaches were packed, and they did look pretty tempting even to me. I then walked back to my hostel through Ipanema and Copacabana towns, first making a detour from Ipanema to take a look at Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas, which is where the rowing and canoeing events will take place during the 2016 Olympics.

The following day I decided to get out of the city, and went for a walk in Tijuca National Park, which is a piece of tropical rainforest in the mountains close to Rio. In fact the national park isn't really outside the city at all, because it's only a 15-minute drive from Copacabana, and it's surrounded by districts of Rio on all sides. Having arrived in the national park, and once I'd got away from the road and from all of the children's birthday parties that were going on (it was Sunday, after all), it was very peaceful, and only the occasional roar of an aircraft jet engine reminded me that I was so close to Rio. I spent a couple of hours walking along some of the trails, then made my back into town.

Rio is a very divided city, with an ever widening gap between rich and poor, so this morning I went to see the other side of the story, by going on a favela (slum) tour. We went to Rocinha, which is the largest of the more than 900 favelas in Rio, with a population of around 200,000. It's also one of the most improved favelas, and we were assured that it was quite safe to walk around. Our guide, Daniel, explained that favelas tend to be controlled by drug gangs, and they maintain order in the favelas, so there's generally little crime there (other than drug crime, obviously), and the main risk to those not involved in the drug trade is getting caught up in a gun battle between rival gangs. However, Daniel explained that the man who greets you with a smile in the favela may be the same man that robs you on Copacabana Beach.

There were twelve of us on the tour, and after being driven to the entrance to the favela, we all caught moto-taxis to the top of Rocinha, from where we could see the whole favela below us, as well as Gávea, one of Rio's smartest districts, in the distance. We then walked down along narrow alleyways that in places were barely wide enough for two people to pass. The condition of the houses varied - some looked well built, and others looked unstable and in a state of disrepair. A few others, such as this one, had already collapsed, due to landslides caused by the heavy rains in Rio earlier this year.

Waste disposal is clearly an issue, because there was rubbish all over the place, causing there to be a horrible smell pretty much everywhere. Daniel explained that the reason for this is that the houses have all been built illegally on land that used to be part of the rainforest of Tijuca National Park, and the illegal status of the people living there means that they don't pay taxes, and as a result they get few services in return. There was also a spaghetti of electricity wires throughout the favela, which was a result of people hooking up their own wires from their houses to the grid to get free electricity. Apparently those living near the top of the favela are the most likely to get away with it.

About halfway down we stopped off at a centre housing a social project that aims to improve the lives of the favela's residents. The building seemed to be occupied by a nursery at the time we visited. It also had great views from its roof terrace, as you can see here, here and below.

I wouldn't say I was particularly shocked by the conditions in the favela. The ramshackle style of the buildings actually reminded me a lot of La Paz in Bolivia, although the narrow alleyways reminded me more of the medieval medinas of Morocco. Things are definitely changing though, and after decades of ignoring the problems in the favelas, the government is finally taking an interest. Access to public transport is improving, and a cable car is even being built in Rocinha. Daniel told us that by the time the Olympics are held in Rio in 2016, staying in a guesthouse in a favela will be a viable option, and at a fraction of the cost of a hotel room in somewhere like Copacabana.

And that's my report from Rio. From here it's be a bit of a change of pace, as I'm catching a bus to Ouro Preto tonight, which is a small colonial town in the mountains.

Salvador

The bus journey from Recife to Salvador on Sunday night didn't quite go according to plan. Everything was OK until around 5:30 on Monday morning, when the driver stopped the bus in the middle of the road and switched the engine off, and we just sat there for a long time. At first I couldn't see what was going on, because there was a long queue of traffic ahead of us, and the driver wasn't letting anyone get off the bus. I could see smoke in the distance, so I thought that perhaps there'd been an accident that was blocking the road. However, after about an hour the driver opened the bus doors, and I walked down to the source of the smoke, and this is what I saw:

After adding some punctuation, the banner on the left reads 'Exigimos nossos direitos de ir e vir. Asfalto já BR-400', which means 'We demand our rights to come and go. Asphalt now (for) BR-400'. Basically they were protesting about the lack of paving of the BR-400 highway, which one of the other passengers explained to me was one of these roads down below the main highway, which they were also blockading. For some reason they'd decided to take out their frustration by inconveniencing us and anyone else who happened to be travelling along that stretch of road on that Monday morning.

The protesters seemed to be having a great time, playing loud music and letting off the occasional firework, and meanwhile the queues of vehicles were growing ever longer in both directions. After several hours the police turned up, and at about 10:30am they finally managed to get the protesters to clear one of the hard shoulders, allowing traffic to pass. I don't know if the protest was successful, but I'm sure that at least some asphalt will have to be provided now, if only to fix the damage they did to the road by lighting fires on it.

The delay added five hours to what was already scheduled to be a 14-hour bus journey, and in the end I didn't arrive at my hostel in Salvador until 3pm, which was 23 hours after I left Olinda. I'd only allowed myself two days to see Salvador, so having lost most of Monday I now didn't have much time at all.

So I went straight out to see the sights of the Pelourinho, which is Salvador's historic centre. Salvador is the biggest centre of Afro-Brazilian culture in the country, with over 80% of the population descended from African slaves. The African influence is apparent everywhere in the Pelourinho, in the street food, the women in traditional African dress, the African music, and the performances of capoeira. The capoeira was particularly impressive - I didn't really understand what it was before, but I do now, and these guys were quite amazing gymnasts.

Walking around the Pelourinho I saw the usual assortment of colonial churches, such as the Cathedral, Igreja de São Francisco, and the similarly named Igreja da Ordem Terceira de São Francisco. I was able to go inside the last of these, and the church was looking very smart, as it was obviously being prepared for a wedding. There was a museum attached, many of whose rooms were decorated with Portuguese azulejo tiles like these ones. I also saw lots of other examples of colonial architecture, for example here, here and below.

In the evening I went for a meal and a few beers with Bert, who's a Belgian guy that I'd met in the dorm in my hostel. Salvador is Bert's final destination of a six-month trip around South America that's been very similar to mine, and he's also the first person I've met who's been to Paraguay, which is where I'm planning to go after Brazil. He told me that from what he'd seen of Paraguay, it's hardly worth going there. This isn't exactly surprising news, and I'll still go there despite what he says (I need to go in that direction anyway if I'm going to visit Iguazu Falls), but now I think I'll spend some extra time in Brazil, and cut my time in Paraguay down to the minimum.

Today I saw a bit more of the Pelourinho, although it's Independence Day today in Brazil, which meant that a lot of things were closed, so it wasn't the ideal day to be doing that. I also went for a ride on the Elevador Lacerda, which is an art deco lift linking the Pelourinho, which is located on a cliff above the sea, with the Cidade Baixa (Low City), which contains the city's commercial centre and port.

Tuesday evening is the big party night of the week in the Pelourinho, so a lot of live music has been going on this evening, and I went to take a look at a free concert that was being held in the Terreiro de Jesus, which is one of the Pelourinho's main squares. I didn't stay for long, partly because it's been raining almost non-stop this evening, but also because Salvador is one of the most dangerous cities in Brazil, and I didn't feel very safe. In fact Bert told me that a man tried to rob him this evening, so it quite clearly isn't safe here at all.

Tomorrow morning I'm catching a flight to Rio. I'd hoped to do this whole trip without flying, but in this case there was hardly any price difference between going by plane and going by bus, and when you consider that the flight takes two hours, but the bus takes between 24 and 28 hours, it wasn't a hard decision to make.

Olinda & Recife

Twelve hours along the coast by bus from Fortaleza is Recife. I arrived in Recife on Friday morning, and immediately caught a local bus out to Olinda, which is Recife's much smaller and more peaceful sister city. Olinda is a colonial town with picturesque streets and grand churches, and I've spent a couple of afternoons wandering around seeing the sights, and trying to avoid the annoying guides who keep offering me guided tours and won't take no for an answer.

I went to see several of the churches including Igreja da Sé (which is Olinda's cathedral), Mosteiro de São Bento, the derelict Igreja do Carmo, and Igreja da Misericórdia, together with its nuns. Igreja da Sé is located at the top of Alto da Sé, which is a hill that offers a good view of the old part of Olinda, with the sea behind it. Looking towards the south-west, you also get a great view of Recife's skyline in the distance.

Olinda is full of cobbled streets and colourful houses, some more colourful than others. The town is also known for its Carnaval, during which giant dolls are paraded through the streets. While the dolls aren't being paraded, a lot of them are kept on display, and you see figures like these throughout the town.

On Saturday morning I went into Recife, the main reason being that I'd completely run out of books, and I'd read in Lonely Planet that there was a big bookstore in Recife called Livraria Cultura, which had an impressive range of foreign-language titles. And this time Lonely Planet wasn't wrong, because Livraria Cultura did have a good selection of English-language books, and I bought a couple that should keep me going for a week or two at least.

While I was in Recife I took the opportunity to see the sights, such as the Paço Alfândega (originally a convent, then a customs house, and now a smart shopping centre) and the colourful houses on Rua Bom Jesus (Good Jesus Road). I wasn't particularly impressed by Recife - the centre is dominated by ugly 1960's tower blocks, while the old part of town, Recife Antigo, is small, and most of the buildings range in condition from merely crumbling to completely derelict. However, there is work going on to renovate some of the historic buildings (see the photo below), so maybe Recife will look a lot smarter in a few years' time.

You may have noticed in a couple of the Olinda photos that there are signs advertising something called MIMO. That stands for Mostra Internacional de Música em Olinda (International Exhibition of Music in Olinda), and this has been going on while I've been here. There are several musical performances every day, as well as showings of films. I skipped the films because I thought I probably wouldn't understand them, but I did go to one of the concerts in Igreja da Sé yesterday afternoon. It was given by the Symphony Orchestra of the Federal University of the Rio Grande do Norte, and they were really good, but the concert was spoiled for me by the noise of the fans that had been set up along one side of the church. They were obviously meant to keep us cool, which they did, but they also drowned out the music except during the loudest parts of the concert.

I considered going to Porto de Galinhas today with a couple of people I met in my hostel, but I decided against it as it would have involved spending several hours sitting on a bus just to go and sit on a beach, even if it is considered to be the best beach in Brazil. Instead I spent the morning writing this blog post, and now I'm going to relax and enjoy the sun until late afternoon, when I have to head back into Recife to catch my bus to Salvador.

Fortaleza

Fortaleza is all about beaches, and although it's a big city, it doesn't have a lot else of interest, so this blog post is going to be fairly brief! Yesterday, which was my first full day here, I went to take a look at the modern, and very concrete, cathedral, as well as the nearby central market, with its weird winding walkways.

I also visited the Dragão do Mar, which is a cultural centre with museums, galleries, walkways, restaurants and bars, and even a planetarium. Its biggest draw is the Museu de Arte Contemporânea (Museum of Contemporary Art), which I also went to. It was split over two floors - upstairs they had what I thought were a few fairly pointless video installations, but downstairs was a lot more interesting, with paintings by some big names like Picasso, Miró and Matisse.

I've been to take a look at a few of Fortaleza's beaches, even though I think I've already established that I don't like beaches. The nearest beach to where I'm staying is Iracema beach, which as you can see was deserted when I was there. This morning I went to Meireles beach (below), which is a couple of kilometres east of Iracema, and is where most of the big luxury hotels are situated, so it was correspondingly busier.

These beaches are right in the city centre, and littered with rubbish in some places, so they didn't seem particularly pleasant. I think Fortaleza does have some really good beaches, but to get to those you have to go further out of town.

I carried on past Meireles beach to the harbour and then to the fish market, where you can buy fish and then take it to be prepared at a nearby stall for a few extra reales. I considered buying a few prawns or even a lobster, but then I remembered that I'd paid the price for eating shellfish just before a long bus journey when I was in Peru, so I decided against it. It was near here that I witnessed a policeman beating up a young homeless man - I have no idea whether he'd done anything to deserve it, but it did seem unnecessarily brutal.

I leave Fortaleza tonight, and the long bus journey I was referring to will get me to Recife in the morning, although I plan to stay in Olinda, which is Recife's smaller sister city.

Jericoacoara

It was a bit of a challenge to get to Jericoacoara from Barreirinhas. Jericoacoara is a small, isolated town on the coast, and it has no road access from the west, which means that the journey involves driving along a dirt track, over sand dunes, and even directly on the beach. If you've got an arm and a leg to spare, i.e. R$300 (£110), you can pay an agency in Barreirinhas to transfer you directly to Jericoacoara in a single day, but otherwise the journey takes two days, and involves changing vehicle no fewer than four times.

And that's what I did. From Barreirinhas I took a 4x4 vehicle to Paulino Neves, then another 4x4 to Tutóia, followed by a bus to Parnaíba. I stayed the night in Parnaíba, then the next morning I caught a bus to Camocim, and finally I took another 4x4 vehicle to Jericoacoara. Altogether, including the hotel room in Parnaíba, the trip cost roughly R$120 (£45), which wasn't a bad saving on the agency price. It was quite an interesting journey, although not particularly difficult because most of the modes of transport joined up fairly well. At one point our vehicle had to be punted across a small river, and below you can see the view as we approached Jericoacoara along mile after mile of deserted beach.

Jericoacoara is quite unlike anywhere I've been before. It has a permanent population of only around two thousand, yet there are over a hundred hotels and pousadas (guesthouses), so things are very much oriented towards tourism. The place has a very peaceful and relaxed feel, although it's also known for its nightlife, which I'm told doesn't get going until well after midnight. All of the streets are paved with sand, as you can see here and here - this makes life difficult for ordinary vehicles, so the kind of buggy you can see in this photo is the preferred mode of transport.

Jericoacoara is Brazil's top location for windsurfing, and it's also a big kitesurfing destination. When I arrived here I had plans to try out one or both of these sports, but I guess I got infected by the peacefulness of the place, because I ended up being very lazy and not doing very much at all. I think I needed a rest anyway, and it also didn't help that the pousada at which I'm staying serves the biggest and best breakfasts I've had in a long while (bread, ham, cheese, fruit, coffee, fruit juice and cake) - I didn't really feel like doing anything very active after eating that much food first thing in the morning.

However, I didn't laze around the entire time. On Saturday evening I climbed to the top of Sunset Dune to watch the sun set over the sea. There were hundreds of people there, and the Caipirinha seller was doing a roaring trade from his wheelbarrow. The sunset wasn't bad, but probably not worth me uploading a photo, although it did get a round of applause from the assembled crowd. I thought the sunset I saw from the beach on Monday evening was better.

On Sunday afternoon I went to see the Pedra Furada (Rock Arch), which is a natural arch formed by wind and sea erosion, and is the symbol of Jericoacoara. It's about an hour's walk north-east of Jericoacoara, partly along the beach and partly over a hill. Here and here you can see a couple of views of the coastline from the hill, and below is a photo of the Rock Arch.

On the way back I walked right up to the top of Serrote hill, where there's a lighthouse, which isn't particularly attractive but does have a 360° view across Jericoacoara.

On Monday afternoon I went for my one and only swim in the sea off Jericoacoara beach. I stayed for a short while afterwards to watch the capoeira class that was taking place on the beach (it looked pretty weird to me), but I didn't hang around much after that. To be honest I don't particularly enjoy sitting on beaches, which probably means I'm travelling in the wrong country, because this part of Brazil has some of South America's best beaches, and I don't think I'm likely to be going to any of them.

This afternoon I leave for Fortaleza, so I'll soon be back in civilisation, together with, of course, more beaches.

São Luís & Lençóis Maranhenses National Park

I only had a short stay in São Luís, so I'm combining it with a post about Lençóis Maranhenses National Park, which is where I went the day after I was in São Luís.

After a 12-hour bus journey that seemed to take me hardly any distance at all across Brazil, I arrived in São Luís on Wednesday morning. I travelled with Armando and Lucía, the Argentinian couple that I first met on the boat in Manaus, after we bumped into each other again at the hostel in Belém. Once we'd arrived in São Luís, we had quite an unpleasant time trying to find a hostel; our first choice was full, which meant that we spent the best part of an hour walking around in the blazing sun with our backpacks on, looking for somewhere else. Eventually we settled for Pousada Internacional, which was a cheap hostel in a good location, but was probably the most run-down place I've stayed at in my whole trip. Anyway I put up with it because I only planned to spend one night in São Luís.

I spent most of the day wandering around the historic centre of São Luís, which is one of the best preserved colonial cities in the whole of Brazil, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It has several grand civic buildings, including the Court of Justice and the Palácio dos Leões (Palace of the Lions), as well as a 17th century cathedral, below.

Here is a photo of one of the streets in the historic centre, and this is a typical house, with the Portuguese exterior tiling that you see throughout the centre. A lot of the colonial-era buildings are in a fairly crumbling state, for example here and here, but there's an ongoing restoration project in the city that means that these buildings will most likely be rescued.

The following morning Armando, Lucía and I left São Luís and travelled to Barreirinhas, which is the usual starting point for trips into Lençóis Maranhenses National Park. We arrived around lunchtime, and I'd planned to spend the rest of the day in Barreirinhas and then go on a 4x4 tour of the national park the following morning. However, as soon as I got off the bus I was accosted by an employee of a tour agency who told me that there were places available on a tour that afternoon, leaving in less than an hour's time. Since my first impressions of Barreirinhas weren't too good, I made a snap decision to change my plans and join the tour that afternoon, which meant that I'd be free to leave Barreirinhas the following morning. Armando and Lucía were organising a three-day hike into the park, and I would have liked to have joined them, but I decided that I didn't have enough time to do that. So once again we said our goodbyes, and I rushed off to get ready for the tour.

A short time later I was picked up from my hostel by a 4x4 vehicle, and there I met the other nine people in the group, all of whom were Brazilian. They were all chatting to each other so enthusiastically that I thought at first that everyone knew each other, but I worked out eventually that that wasn't the case - I guess they were just being typical friendly Brazilian people. After driving a short distance we had to wait our turn to cross a river on a car ferry, which was pushed across the river by a small motor boat. We then had an unbelievably bumpy ride to the edge of the park, which was as far as we could go in the 4x4, because motor vehicles aren't allowed to enter the park.

We then left our shoes in the vehicle and set off on (bare)foot for a four-hour walk around the national park. At first glance Lençóis Maranhenses looks like a desert, but officially it isn't (although I'd say it looks a lot more deserty than that desert I went to in Colombia). The reason it's not considered a desert is that it has a relatively high level of rainfall, and during the rainy season (March to September), which is obviously when I was there, the water collects in the valleys between the sand dunes, forming dozens of lakes, for example here, here and below.

We'd been told to wear swimming gear, so we were able to go for a swim in each of the lakes that we visited. None of the lakes was more than waist-deep, but some of them contained fish, which is pretty amazing when you consider that the lakes dry up almost completely during the dry season (apparently the explanation is that the fish eggs are brought by birds from the sea).

Unfortunately the only photo of me in Lençóis Maranhenses is a bit rubbish and out of focus, but here it is anyway. There are a few more photos of the national park in my August 2010 album. Our guide told us that the whole park has roughly the same area as the city of São Paulo, i.e. it's huge, so we were only able to see a tiny fraction of it in our half-day tour. We stayed until sunset, after which we got back in our vehicle and had another bumpy ride back to the river, where we found ourselves at the back of a long queue to use the car ferry. Fortunately there was a long row of shops and stalls there, all keen to sell us stuff.

After I returned to my hostel I was finally able to spend some time looking around Barreirinhas, and in fact it wasn't too bad after all. Just one street along from the main street there was a row of riverfront restaurants and bars, which was actually quite pleasant. But by that time I'd made my decision, and the following morning I left for Jericoacoara, which I'll tell you about next time.

Belém

I've got a bit of catching up to do with my blog, due to a lack of wi-fi again. I thought Brazil was meant to be the most developed country in South America, but so far the internet access has been worse than in Bolivia. Anyway, here's my report from Belém.

Belém was my second destination in Brazil, and it's another big city, almost the same size as Manaus and with a similar feel. I spent Sunday afternoon recovering from the boat journey, and on Monday I saw most of Belém's main sights, including, in no particular order, Praça Dom Pedro II, the Cathedral, the Theatro da Paz, and the 17th century Presépio Fort (below).

I also went to the Mercado Ver-o-Peso (the 'See-the-Weight' Market), both the fish area and the Amazonian herbal remedy area. I had lunch in the modern extension of the market, which houses dozens of stands selling cheap set lunches and fruit juices (and here it is as seen from above). I also went for a look around the Estação das Docas, which is a row of converted waterside warehouses, mainly occupied now by expensive restaurants. Surprise, surprise, I didn't eat there.

I bought some brazil nuts from a street stall nearby, which seemed the obvious thing to do since I'm in Brazil. When I tried them for the first time they tasted unlike any brazil nuts I'd ever eaten - they were more like coconut than brazil nuts. But strangely when I ate some more only the following day they'd developed a really unpleasant aftertaste, and were inedible.

On Monday afternoon I went for a walk around Belém's commercial district, and I noticed a couple of things. Firstly, C&A is still going strong in Brazil, ten years after it went out of business in the UK (I saw several stores in Belém alone). Also, it was good to see a British landmark being celebrated over here - this is Belém's biggest chain of chemists, with a branch seemingly every few blocks. In the evening I went to the cinema to see Inception (in Portuguese it's called 'A Origem'), and what a great film. I wonder how they shot those zero-gravity scenes - I'm sure the internet will tell me.

On Tuesday I went to the Museo Emilio Goeldi, which is a zoo set in a city block-sized piece of rainforest in the centre of Belém. They had, among other things, a baby tapir, a jaguar, caimans and lots of turtles, but sadly no manatee, as you can see below.

And that's about all I have to say about Belém. The next blog post about São Luís should be coming along soon.

Manaus to Belém

I made it to Belém on Sunday after a four-day boat trip from Manaus. It was a day less than I was expecting (although it was quite long enough), so Lonely Planet was actually quite accurate with its 3½-day estimate. I began the trip with some companions, because three other people from my hostel were also taking the same boat, and we shared a lift down to the harbour. They were Lucía and Armando, a young couple from Buenos Aires, and Maria, from Spain. However, all three of them were planning to stop for a couple of days in Santarém, which is roughly halfway between Manaus and Belém, so they'd only be with me for the first half of the journey.

We arrived at Manaus harbour on Wednesday afternoon about three hours before departure, to find our boat moored at a different pier to the one we'd be taken to. The ticket seller, who was with us, assured us that the boat would soon come over to where we were waiting, which sure enough it did, and below you can see the N/M Santarém on its way to meet us. Lucía, Armando and Maria had been a bit more organised than me, and they'd arranged for their hammocks to be hung up in advance, guaranteeing a good spot on the boat. We found their hammocks on the upper deck near the front of the boat, which was the ideal location, because it was away from both the boat's engine and the toilets. Fortunately there was a spare spot next to their hammocks, so I was able to hang my hammock there.

The hammock area was a bit cosy, as you can see here and here (in the first photo my hammock is the mainly blue one in the centre, and in the second photo it's the one on the right). I didn't bring my tape measure with me, but I reckoned that the hammocks were spaced about 70cm apart, which isn't much wider than a regular-sized person, so you can imagine that once everyone was in their hammock there wasn't a lot of room to move.

We had a few hours to wait until we were due to set off, so I spent a bit of time exploring the boat, although that didn't take very long. The boat had three levels, plus a cargo hold below. The lower level contained hammock space, toilets and showers, as well as the kitchen and a dining room; the middle level had more hammock space, toilets and showers, another dining room, and about ten cabins for those who wanted to travel in a bit of comfort; and the upper level had more cabins and a bar, which blasted out non-stop loud music.

We set off from Manaus about an hour late, and I settled in for the long journey. For security reasons I didn't think it was a good idea to get my laptop out during the journey, so really the only things I had with me to pass the time were a couple of books to read (I'd been running a bit low on books, but luckily I'd managed to find a good book lying on a shelf in the hostel the previous day, and swapped it for one I'd already read). I also soon discovered that the food service wouldn't be starting until the following day, so for dinner it was tuna and biscuits, which I'd brought with me just in case this happened.

I got an early night, and I quickly discovered how difficult it was to sleep in a hammock in those cramped conditions. I really couldn't find a comfortable position to lie in. An added problem was that I'd hung my hammock directly below a light, which had been handy earlier in the evening because it had allowed me to read, but it wasn't so great when I was trying to sleep. As well as shining in my eyes, the light was also attracting insects, and they weren't just little bugs - these were massive winged Amazonian insects, which I could feel landing on my body and face every few minutes. Usually I'm not particularly squeamish about this sort of thing, but these were pretty horrendous creatures, and there was no way I could sleep under that kind of bombardment. My neighbour to my left, a Brazilian man, had the same problem, and at about 2am he managed to find a way to block out the light using torn-up pieces of a political pamphlet that had been handed out earlier in the day. That solved the insect problem, and I did manage to get at least a few hours' sleep that night.

I was pretty tired on Thursday morning, but that was OK because there wasn't a lot to do other than lounge around in my hammock either dozing or reading my book. If I was feeling energetic I could walk up to the top deck to sit in a chair and read my book, but that was pretty much it. There wasn't a lot to see either, because we were sailing straight down the middle of a very wide river, and this was a typical view of the shore.

I tried the food for the first time that day, and it was mostly pretty good. I had fried eggs, ham, bread and coffee for breakfast, and for lunch they served a typical Brazilian 'prato feito' (set meal), which consisted of chicken, pasta, rice and black beans. However, I did have a very long wait for my lunch, because when the food arrived after an initial half-hour wait, everyone else rushed up to help themselves, whereas I sat in my seat and waited, deciding I didn't want to take part in such an undignified scrum. Stupid me, because of course some of the people were greedy gits and piled the food onto their plates, and about ten of us were left with no chicken, so I then had another half-hour wait while more chicken was prepared. Fortunately dinner (pretty similar to lunch, but with beef instead of chicken) was a bit more civilised.

I slept better on Thursday night, probably because I was so tired from the first night. I woke up early though, because at 5.30am on Friday morning we arrived in Santarém, and about half of the passengers on the boat started packing up their things and leaving. The boat was due to be in dock for much of the day, so Lucía, Armando and Maria slept on for another couple of hours, but then they too got ready to leave, so we said our goodbyes and I was on my own again. Suddenly I had a lot of space, although the place was left in a bit of a mess, as you can see below.

The mess was soon cleared up, and the space was soon taken up too, because before long people started boarding for the next part of the journey. An elderly lady installed herself directly next to me - I thought she seemed a bit frail to be sleeping in a hammock, but actually she managed perfectly well. I considered doing a bit of sightseeing in Santarém, but in the end I settled for just taking a short walk in the area immediately around where we'd docked, partly because I didn't want to take the risk of the boat leaving without me, but mainly because I wanted to protect both my belongings and my hammock spot (I thought someone might move my hammock in my absence). We eventually got on our way at 1.30pm, after eight hours docked at Santarém, and it was a pretty boring day until just before dusk, when we arrived at our next stop, Monte Alegre, and we got just a glimpse of life in a small Amazonian town.

Saturday was by far the most interesting day in terms of what we could see from the boat, because for most of the day we were moving down much narrower rivers than before, which meant that we were a lot closer to the shore. Dozens of people in small rowing boats approached us as we went along, and a lot of them were calling to us and waving with a funny two-handed up-and-down wave. It soon became clear that they were hoping for gifts, because some of the passengers on our boat started throwing objects wrapped in plastic bags into the water, and the people in the small boats rowed over to pick them up. I'm not sure what exactly was in the bags, but I think it was mainly food. A number of other people manoeuvred their boats alongside ours and hooked themselves on, at which point they were then able to board our boat and sell their goods (mainly prawns). The three young boys in this boat managed to latch on without using any kind of motor, which I thought was pretty skilful. We also saw some very isolated homes along the way.

On Saturday morning the elderly lady left, and I soon got a new neighbour, Joaquim, a French-Canadian guy who had joined the boat at Santarém, and who moved up to my deck after having had some of his belongings stolen from his bag while he was sleeping on the lower deck the previous night. It was a bit of a relief once again to have someone next to me that I could have a conversation with. That evening we also had probably the best sunset of the journey, which you can see below.

Shortly after sunset we made a quick stop at a small town whose name I don't know, and it was a bit too quick for one man, because he went ashore and then the boat left without him. Lots of people on the boat were shouting at the captain that someone had been left behind, but it was obvious the boat was never going to stop. I don't know if the man ever made it back on board.

On Sunday morning I was woken in the early hours when the boat started to rock from side to side, causing all of the hammocks to swing like crazy. There wasn't much chance of getting any more sleep when we all kept banging into each other, so it was an early start for everyone. We'd entered rough water, but it wasn't clear why, because the weather conditions were good - I guess it was because we were approaching the Atlantic, in which case perhaps that stretch of water is always rough. Fortunately after a few hours we turned into a smaller branch of the river as we approached Belém, and the remainder of the journey was a lot smoother.

Finally at about 10.30am we could see the skyline of Belém in the distance, and we knew that we were almost there. Half an hour later we were docked, and I was very relieved to be able to pack up my hammock and get off that boat for the final time. All in all, even though it was a pretty boring and unpleasant journey at times, it was definitely an interesting experience, but one that I won't be looking to repeat any time soon.

Manaus

I've spent the last couple of days in Manaus, which is a big, hot, noisy city in the middle of the Amazonian jungle. It's not a particularly attractive city, but there are a few impressive old buildings dotted among the ugly majority of the city. Yesterday I went on a guided tour of the Teatro Amazonas, which is a 104-year old opera house built at the height of Manaus's rubber boom. Next to the theatre is São Sebastião church, and both of these buildings are located on São Sebastião square, below.

I'm told the tiling of the square is meant to represent the Encontro das Águas (Meeting of the Waters), in which the dark-coloured Rio Negro meets the light-coloured Rio Solimões, not far from Manaus. I also saw Manaus's Cathedral and its art-nouveau Municipal Market, which was very much under renovation. I then went for a tour of the Palacete Provincial, which houses an art gallery and a few other exhibitions.

In my spare time I've been sampling the Brazilian food, and the good news is that I don't think I'm going to go hungry. I've been eating lunch every day at the per-kilo restaurants that you find everywhere here. Unfortunately you can't really stuff yourself at these restaurants in the same way that you can at all-you-can-eat buffets, because you pay for what you eat (according to how much it weighs), but it's definitely a cheaper way of eating than ordering an à la carte dish. Also common here are churrascarias (meat barbecue restaurants), where the waiters bring unlimited skewers of meat to your table.

There are also juice bars everywhere, which serve dozens of weird fruit juices, many of which I've never heard of before, and which I don't think exist outside the Amazonian region. I've been trying them out one by one, and they've all been pretty good so far.

I've been trying to learn a bit of Portuguese, because I'm finding it a bit awkward not being able to speak the language. It seems that a lot of the vocabulary and grammar is similar or identical to Spanish, which means that I can understand written Portuguese fairly well, but the sound of the language is very different, which makes it difficult to understand what people are saying. Spanish is quite widely spoken here, so I think it's just about possible to get by with just speaking Spanish, but you can't always rely on that.

On my tour of the Teatro Amazonas yesterday the guide told me that there was a free concert that evening being given by a guitar orchestra. (In fact he told me that roughly twenty concerts per month are held at the theatre, about 80% of which are free, which seems like a pretty good deal for the people of Manaus.) So I went back to the theatre in the evening, and people were already queueing round the block when I arrived, although there were plenty of seats for everyone. I ended up in a box on the second floor of the theatre (here is the view of the very grand interior from my box). The concert was given by the Orquestra de Violões de Amazonas (Amazonian Guitar Orchestra), below.

They were pretty good, and most of the songs were obviously popular in Brazil, because a lot of the crowd were clapping, singing and even dancing along with them. However, the only song I recognised was Happy Birthday (sung in Portuguese), although I have no idea whose birthday it was.

This afternoon I'm leaving Manaus on a boat to Belém. I've bought myself a hammock, which I'll be sleeping in while on the boat (travelling in a cabin is very expensive). I'm not sure when exactly I'll arrive in Belém - Lonely Planet says the trip takes 3½ days, but I've been told it's 5 days, and I'm more inclined to believe the higher estimate, so I doubt I'll get there before Monday. I've read some horror stories about these boat trips on the web, so I'm not sure what I'm letting myself in for, but anyway I'm sure it'll be an experience.